As promised, here is my tribute to Kathleen Fasanella’s double welt pocket method. In case you don’t know who Kathleen Fasanella is, her website is called Fashion Incubator and the method I will describe is called “Welt and paper jig”.
Burda ( and a few other books ) suggests you cut two welts and then attach them separately. The downsides of this method are:
- two welts to deal with
- you have to wrestle welts into submission after you have stitched them on, trying to make them nice and even and the edges sharp.
Kathleen’s method offers you to create the sharp edges FIRST. Now, what a brilliant idea! Provided, you have done your maths and your welt pocket opening will accommodate the widths of your two welt lips precisely, this is the easiest method out there.
Note that the rest of the pocket was made following Burda’s instructions. Half way through this torture I regretted bitterly for not going with factory method. Ah well, you win some, you loose some.
Back to the pocket opening. First, you’ll need to prepare a paper “jig” which will allow you to fold and press your welt. You will find the dimensions here.
Next, you must cut and interface your welt, then fold it into your jig and press sharp edges.
And now is the tricky part. If you have never had to stitch PRECISELY, now it is a good time to begin. Start and finish your seams EXACTLY on your marks and not a third of a millimeter before or after. If your pocket opening is going to be 1/2 inch ( 1.3 cm ) wide, then stitch the welts 5-6 mm away from the edges, then the lips will not be crowded at the ends.
The rest of it is pretty easy, and result is great!
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